on May 7, 2016
Hey all! Sorry for the lengthy delay since my last post. We were on vacation in the beautiful Cayman Islands! I’ll be posting some photos of that trip on Instagram, so feel free to check them out.
Today I wanted to do something a bit different – I want to talk about fashion books. I’m one of those people that when I get into something, I want to know everything there is to know about it. I often end up reading a lot of books, taking classes, and even getting certifications. When I started sewing again a couple of years ago, I took classes, watched a lot of YouTube videos, and I also started scouring the internet for recommended books. I was especially interested in what they were using to teach fashion design at the top design schools such as Parsons and FIDM. I can’t afford to go to any of them, but I figure I can afford to buy the same textbooks!!
So, the list below is a combination of very detailed textbooks, sewing how-to books, and also beautifully illustrated books that are wonderful for inspiration. I’ve categorized them to make it easier to find what interests you. I found when I purchased these that the best prices were on Amazon, so I’ve included links in case you want to make a purchase. If you have any other book recommendations, please share!
Sewing Essentials:
Vogue Sewing: Revised and Updated
by the Editors of Vogue Knitting
(Sixth & Spring Books)
ISBN: 1933027002
A veritable encyclopedia of sewing information, this book is great for everyone from the novice to the expert. With lots of illustrations and photographs, this is the one book that I would say should be on every seamster’s shelf. The perfect go-to for everything sewing related.
Fabric-Related Books:
Claire Shaeffer’s Fabric Sewing Guide
by Claire Shaeffer
(Krause Publications)
ISBN-13: 978-0801986284
In addition to en encyclopedic explanation of each fabric’s characteristics, Claire includes technical information that is immeasurably useful: needle size, stitch length, recommended stitch types and other construction tidbits.
Patternmaking and Pattern Alteration:
Patternmaking for Fashion Design (5th Edition)
by Helen Joseph Armstrong
(Prentiss Hall)
ISBN-13: 978-0131699939
This book, which includes a CD ROM, is a college textbook, used in many of the top fashion schools. It has information on pattern making for every area of the body, and it is quite comprehensive. Even if you don’t plan to make your own patterns, it’s a valuable resource to understand the workings behind the pattern.
by Elizabeth Liechty, Della Pottbert, Judith Rasband
(Fairchild Books & Visuals)
ISBN-13: 978-0870057755
Originally published in 1992, it is a testament to the quality of information in this book that it is still at the top of many seamsters’ lists for usefulness. It shows three different ways to alter patterns: the slash-and-spread method, in which you slash the pattern in the middle and spread (or pinch) to adjust fit; the seam and pivot adjust method, in which you slash and adjust only at the seam-line, and the muslin, or trial garment method. Between these three methods you are bound to find one that works perfectly for you. No one method works for every single alteration, so it’s a bonus to have several in one book.
Draping:
By Helen Joseph-Armstrong
(Fairchild Books)
ISBN-13: 978-1609012403
The third edition of Draping for Apparel Design combines Joseph-Armstrong’s classic step-by-step instructions with a user-friendly layout. To show how to turn two-dimensional drawings into three-dimensional garments, the author presents the following three draping principles and techniques: manipulating dart excess, adding fullness, and contour draping. New and updated design projects illustrate how to prepare a draping plan. This text emphasizes the importance of draping foundation garments for building more complex designs. Designers will gain essential skills to creatively apply draping techniques to their own designs.
Draping for Fashion Design (5th Edition)
by Hilde Jaffe and Nurie Relis
(Prentice Hall)
ISBN-13: 978-0132447270
This is the definitive basic instructional text for draping in numerous fashion design programs since its original publication. This book covers all of the fundamental material for beginning and advanced study in an intensive fashion design program and prepares students for the industry. Based on current industry methods, it reflects the dramatic changes of computer integration into the basic design and pattern development process and demonstrates simplified methods wherever they are employed in the industry.
Fashion Illustration:
Fashion Sketchbook, 6th Edition by Bina Abling
by Bina Abling
(Fairchild Books)
ISBN-13: 978-1501395352
Bina Abling has taught courses on design concepts, fashion illustration, model drawing, and fashion portfolio in the fashion design departments at the Fashion Institute of Technology and Parsons School of Design. She is the author of numerous books on fashion illustration, model drawing, and rendering. Personal Note: This is my all-time favourite fashion illustration book. It covers a huge range of topics and can be used whether you are a beginner or advanced. The illustrations are GORGEOUS. If you need another reason to get it – it’s been endorsed by Tim Gunn! 🙂
9 Heads: A Guide to Drawing Fashion (4th Edition)
by Nancy Riegelman
(Prentice Hall)
ISBN-13: 978-0133156935
This text teaches how to acquire the techniques, skills, and knowledge needed to make realistic fashion figures to serve as firm foundations for fashion design sketches. The author also covers the fashion topics, terminology, and current trends that design students need to be familiar with, and provides over a thousand new examples of contemporary drawings to inspire students in their work.
Illustrating Fashion: Concept to Creation
by Steven Stipelman
(Fairchild Books)
ISBN-13: 978-1501310249
This is a pretty great book to learn from and reference every now and then. It covers all the basics, takes you back in time so you get an understanding, and even covers men’s (briefly), children’s and the smaller details like hands, faces and feet. It comes with an instructional DVD from the professor himself. This book is widely used in major fashion design schools.
Couture and Specialty:
Bridal Couture: Fine Sewing Techniques for Wedding Gowns and Evening Wear
by Susan Khalje
(Krase Publications)
ISBN-13: 978-0801987571
You have probably heard her name many times in various sewing blogs and magazines, as she is a prolific sewer. Susan’s explanations of how to build an inner structure for gowns are excellent. Some of the styles of gowns may seem dated, but the how-to information is invaluable for the formal wear sewer!
Couture Sewing Techniques, Revised and Updated
by Claire Shaeffer
(Taunton Press)
ISBN 1-56158-497-5
Published in 2000, this book is packed to the gills with information on all manner of couture details. From the basics of underlining to Chanel-style jacket construction, this book is a treasure trove of techniques, written in a very accessible style. You don’t have to be a couture level seamster, nor do you need to be making a couture garment to use the great information in this book!
Shirtmaking: Developing Skills For Fine Sewing
by David Page Coffin
(Taunton Press)
ISBN-13: 978-1-56158-2
This book is a great resource for anyone who wants to make a shirt, whether for a man or a woman. Mr. Coffin is a master of shirt design and construction, and his writing style is easy to read. The instructions are accompanied by excellent photographic illustrations. And one of the best features of the book is the section of full-sized patterns for collars, patterns, cuffs and plackets that you can adapt to use on any commercial pattern.
Fashion Business, Production, etc:
by Leslie Davis Burns, Kathy K. Mullet, Nancy O. Bryant
(Fairchild Books)
ISBN-13: 978-1609011109
I haven’t read this one cover to cover yet, but it is the standard fashion marketing book used in fashion design and merchandising programs across the continent.
Beyond Design: The Synergy of Apparel Product Development
by Myrna B. Garner, Sandra J. Keiser
(Fairchild Books)
ISBN-13: 978-1609012267
Inspirational and General Interest:
by Harold Koda and Richard Martin
(Harry N. Abrams)
ISBN-13: 978-0810964969
For pure inspiration, I think the books from the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute are among the best. This book, which was published in 1995, surveys garments from a multitude of designers, which is why I include it here. While it won’t give you any construction information, it will give you lots of ideas and hours of enjoyment.
Consumer Behavior in Fashion (2nd Edition)
by Michael Solomon & Nancy Rabolt
(Prentice Hall)
ISBN-13: 978-0131714748
Survey of Historic Costume, 5th ed
by Phyllis G. Tortora & Sara B. Marcketti
(Fairchild Books)
ISBN-13: 978-1501395253
by Michele Wesen Bryant
(Fairchild Books)
ISBN-13: 978-1563672736
Most of these books were selected based on these reference sites below, and the book reviews above are a combination of my own and those from the links below.
http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/24217/top-10-sewing-books
As always, please share your feedback. I love hearing it!